Interview: 2017 Winemaker of Year Sarah Crowe

Sarah Crowe, Winemaker at Yarra Yering, was recently announced as James Halliday's Winemaker of the Year for 2017, marking the first time that a female winemaker has been acknowledged by the revered award. Interestingly, in her early days of winemaking, Sarah worked at Brokenwood Wines in the Hunter Valley, which was launched by Halliday and friends Tony Albert and John Beeston in 1970.

Sarah has carved an incredible reputation at Yarra Yering, which is home to one of the oldest vineyards in the Yarra Valley, and two of her 2014 vintage reds were among only seven table wines in this year's Wine Companion that scored 99/100. Here we found out what winning Winemaker of the Year meant to Sarah, what she loves about winemaking and which wines she can't wait to see released from the barrel.

drinks bulletin: What does it mean to you to have been named 2017 Winemaker of the Year by James Halliday?

Sarah Crowe: It means all the hard work has been worth it. The long hours, the constant searching and questioning of myself: have I done enough? Could I have done something differently? Is each and every wine the best it can be? Mind you, it doesn’t mean that I won’t be like that any more, in fact it will probably be worse!

DB: How did you celebrate your win and have you had an increase in interest at the cellar door since the announcement?

SC: There was champagne! There is no other way to celebrate really. Activity in the cellar door and through the website has been much higher than before. Many people wait for the annual release of the Wine Companion like an old friend coming to visit to help them buy wine with confidence.

DB: What led you to winemaking as a career and what do you love about your job day-to-day?

SC: I studied horticulture after leaving school and worked in garden centres helping people with plant purchases and general garden maintenance. I’ve always loved being outdoors, close to the elements and the changing seasons. I guess it seemed like a short jump to work in a vineyard. From there I went to work in the winery for a harvest and totally fell in love with that side of it. Taking a raw ingredient and making something beautiful for the future that continues to evolve and change. I love it because it’s dynamic, physical and a little unpredictable. You can’t really know exactly what’s going to happen and so you’re always at the mercy of the elements!

DB: What is your winemaking philosophy?

SC: I want to make delicious wines that last through the ages.

DB: Yarra Yering is one of the oldest vineyards in the Yarra Valley. What is it like being able to work with such old vines?

SC: I have the best winemaking gig in Australia! It really is a privilege to be the custodian in charge of these wines. The fruit quality is a combination of this special site, the dirt and the people who tend the vines and wines are equally important.

DB: Do you get to spend much time in the vineyard through the year?

SC: During harvest it really ramps up when I’m testing the grapes to decide on the harvest date. Throughout the year it is a bit more sporadic. We have a great Vineyard Manager, Andrew George, who tends the vines with love and attention. Finding time can be difficult throughout the year so I often take a walk around the vineyard on a weekend to keep up-to-date on what’s going on out there.

DB: Are there any wines that are in barrel currently that you’re excited about releasing?

SC: The 2016 shiraz wines look amazing, both the Underhill Shiraz and the Dry Red Wine No2 will be crackers.