Move over Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio, there is a new grape variety pouring this summer…
Piquepoul is said to have originated several centuries ago in the Languedoc region of southern France. Piquepoul country is centred around the town of Pinet in the Rhone delta, not far from the major oyster waters of Bassin de Theu. But be assured you don't have to buy a ticket to Nice to pour it with your next platter of freshly shucked Coffin Bay or Sydney Rock oysters. For Piquepoul has, sorry, piqued the attention of several Australian vignerons and winemakers.
First to discover the charms of this Cinderella grape was Mark Lloyd at Coriole in McLaren Vale. The epiphany happened on a wine trade trip in 2005 with his Irish distributor Paddy (sic), who carried Piquepouls in his portfolio. Several platters of French oysters later, Mark was convinced. He would import and plant Piquepoul in McLaren Vale.
Six sticks wrapped in wet newspaper from a French nursery, several years in quarantine, and some steep learning have since nurtured this once French underdog grape to his now five acres of vines. The current Coriole Piquepoul 2023 is the ninth release, the last white variety to be harvested, all zingy and fresh with citrus blossom, lemony zest and a long, briny palate.
Other McLaren Vale Piquepoul labels include Lloyd Brothers (Mark's nephews), Ministry of Clouds and Yangarra. Samson Tall make a blend with Grenache.
According to Mark Lloyd, Piquepoul is a generous bearing variety with wide-shouldered bunches that relishes warm terroir, a good climate change grape. 'You need to take care of getting the vine architecture and crop levels right to ensure a delicate acid line and texture in the final wine.'
That's an approach supported by another Piquepoul protagonist, Canowindra NSW vigneron Jason O'Dea who, with oyster farmer Steve Filetti, is spearheading a 'here comes summer' Piquepoul push. Their recently formed 'Piquepoulers of NSW' group, hatched one night over a beer by Jason, Steve and Aaron Mercer, is committed to raising consumer passion for a variety they deem totally suited to our climate, the Cowra GI terroir, and our al fresco lifestyle and passion for seafood. The fact that 20% of Australians eat oysters gives added confidence.
This is an excerpt of the full article in Drinks Trade's summer magazine edition out December.
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